Chanel: SS2013


Spring/Summer 2013

Article first published as Chanel: SS2013 on Technorati.

Solar panels and wind turbines were the majestic background for the latest Chanel show, an image that immediately transports us to renewable sources of energy and some kind of solution to an environmental crisis. And is another reminder that Mr. Lagerfeld has been feeling very ecological lately… going from a Volcanic adventure to an under the sea fantasy, until he reached this environmental statement – I wonder what is coming for next season -. But when you look at the clothes, you just realize that is just that, a big wind machine desperate for attention, another big empty – in the essence off course – background to follow the Chanel tradition. As the clothes were as commercial as depth-lacking, no strong message was behind it.

Opening the show, a lot of black and white ensembles beautifully embellished with pearls, gave us a strong Chanel vibe and created a sense of strong expectations – or disappointment perhaps? – to see what was coming next after such majestic background. But after that, all we kept seeing were impeccably made luxurious dresses in which the always lavish and timeless pearls became one of the biggest statements of the show. Those bracelets and chokers where so imperial and desirable… Luxuriously decadent.

Massive hats that looked like solar panels and ridiculously – yet desirable – giant handbags made of pipes became the real statement of the show. An statement that was apparently directly-connected to that massive background, they were probably the big carriers of the ecological message… Where they really? We saw protective armor-like pieces, nature inspired embellishment, panel-like and wind-motors prints, and some other utterly obvious references, that felt… Well, too obvious and lacking of a real message. Is it possible that Mr. Lagerfeld sees things in a whole different way and I am not clever enough to understand his profound message? One way or another that message felt too subtle and empty, and idea created just for show and entertainment purposes. What a shame.

A richness of textures was there to delight our senses throughout a beautiful display of cropped – very Chanel – boxy little jackets, dresses, suits, pants and whatever essential piece you could possibly need. In leather, denim, wool, sheering, embellishment, glitter, geometrical patterns, flowers… name it Lagerfeld had it on the show in every possible color and shape. It was an impressive display of incredibly sellable clothes that are going to make the buyers very happy – retail fantasy – : First, it is Chanel; second, is Karl Lagerfeld; and third the collection was as desirable as it was luxurious. Who does not want a piece of that?

By looking at this collection, you notice that no matter how modern, desirable and current this feels, – obviously – Mr. Lagerfeld is not getting any younger. His mind may be, but his body is not. So, you cannot help but wonder what do the people of Chanel have under their sleeves? What are they going to do after Lagerfeld retirement? How can replace such a dreamy ‘golden eggs maker’? Could Lagerfeld anointed – if he accepts the job – successor, Haider Ackerman, live up to the expectations? Mr. Lagerfeld knows how to make the most desirable luxury – as we saw on this collection – that makes us want to expend thousands and thousands and thousands of pounds, no matter the crisis or any global situation. We are going to wait and see… That will be really entertaining.

It was a gorgeous display of extremely alluring but empty – I am still waiting for a message to follow such stunning background – clothes, that buyers and editorials are already loving for sure, with beautiful craftsmanship and impeccable finishing as usual… Pure luxury. Bravo Lagerfeld, the money maker.


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