Article first published as Marc Jacobs: SS2013 on Technorati.
Forget about the mad hatter and the fantasy world of Lewis Carroll that Marc Jacobs gave uslast season. Take off al those layers of clothes and hats and leave behind the haunted fairy tale, because this season, Mr. Jacobs is about to give us a strong dose of harsh-reality… “very, very brutal. Brutal in its simplicity. That’s our new word for the season”, like the designer described his collection in his own words.
The first model walked down the runway wearing a black on white stripes-printed t-shirt with that instant message of restriction… barcodes and jail were the first things that came to my mind. More restrained models with stripes followed the first look and the message became even more loud and clear. Simpler clothes than last season, but there was definitely nothing simple about it, rather than intellectual… Is Marc Jacobs trying to tell us something more? What ever it is, is beautiful, interesting yet quite disturbing. It felt like a messed up version of Chicago and Sucker Punch, with stripes taking over the runway in every possible way to transform into checks and later open space to nude and burgundy tones.
The timeless black was strong and somehow aggressive but with a dose of fun with an unexpected appearance of the always charming Mickey Mouse who opened for the animal prints, the ruffles with a clowny and Victorian vibe, and the strong op-art graphicism in alluring and sophisticated shapes with high doses of glamor with shiny and glittery fabrics.
The whole show felt like an statement with a strong message underneath it all. Mirrors as a background, boxy purses, jail-stripes and a finale with all the models standing in the middle of the runway at the same time, made a cinematographic fun-house-circus display, that could remind us of a restrained Winona Ryder and her golden years in the 90s… Girl Interrupted, Little Women and The Age Of Innocence come together while the leading lady loses her innocence as part of a freak show that we are happy to witness.