Article first published as Jason Wu: SS2013 on Technorati.
When legendary supermodel Carolyn Murphy opened the show with her penetrating blue eyes and slicked-back blonde hair, dressed in a croc-embossed leather minidress with a sheer panel that revealed a corset construction and matchy pumps… Jason Wu’s message for Spring/Summer 2013 was loud and clear: Sex and Power. Taking his usual hints of sexiness with his sensual femininity to a whole new level of hardcore-fetishism.
A risky business for the usual playfulness of the designer that always comes with an innocent sensuality, and has never gone this far before in such a sexually charged direction, that according to Wu was inspired by legendary photographer Helmut Newton with nods to Lillian Bassman. A very naughty S&M side of the designer that rather than being out of his comfort zone, just felt hidden, because by judging by the outcome of such a brilliant show, he definitely knows what he is doing. This is his moment of exploring his wild side while losing his innocence… If he were a Disney Pop star this would be his ‘I can’t be tamed’ or ‘I’m a Slave 4 U’ moment in which the media would be scandalized while he said that is his time to be himself and explore him self, like the iconic Britney Spears said some years ago.
But do not expect the usual pain and humiliation S&M aesthetic. It was all lace and leather fetishism with beautifully incorporated harnesses and studded pieces, but in such an incredibly romantic, feminine and sophisticated way with that signature Wu-look that beyond vulgar and obvious it was ultra glamourous and luxurious.
Underneath that romantic poise there were strong doses of sexual desire in a woman who was ready to take over the world in loose silhouettes that were magnificently combined with structured-hardcore pieces in which Wu’s superwoman could use her most powerful tools… femininity and sensuality.
Due to that strong dose of sex, it was probably Wu’s darkest collection with a strong use of black and midnight blue with small hints of color in classic and timeless pieces worthy of a film-noir, with all that old hollywood glamour, but with a modern and innovative appeal full of decadent luxury. A luxury that came in leather, chiffon and lace — he collaborated with La Perla on the innerwear pieces — as the perfect canvas of the contrasts, with a strong and feminine woman who stars in the show of the appreciation and celebration of her shape and the beautiful craftsmanship.
And Those dresses at the end with the sheering and yards, and yards, and yards of fabric were as delightful and alluring as they were refreshing. But the models at the end right before and during the final walk standing on the catwalk all together was pure cinematography divine, a perfect ending for a beautiful show… A Hitchcock stylish fairytale.