Christian Dior Haute-Couture
Article first published as Dior Couture: FW2012 on Technorati.
Probably the most anticipated and most buzzed-about show of the season, and one of the most highly anticipated designer debuts in fashion history, took an interesting and innovative take on haute-couture. After the first look walked the runway, it became very clear that fashion was taking a new turn, as Christian Dior and Haute-couture were going in a new direction; a simpler, more architectonical and modern way yet equally luxurious and dreamy as always. A new and more versatile direction that could easily take as many courses as the customers want, a needed change for the non-celebrities-couture-customers interested in less show-off moments than statement evening-wear. Either way, Simons covered every possible angle, with such a strong confidence that it was just perfect.The fashion fantasy does not come any larger and fantastic than Haute-Couture as Raf Simons proves while launching his new “ Christian Dior Look” in a grand venue with a series of intimate rooms. The fantasy of couture strongly breathed inside the venue that felt more like paradise, with densely blossoming garden walls — white orchids in one room, deep purple delphiniums and multi-blooms in another. It was pure heaven.
Dior’s new modernity made everybody happy, including the highly-demanding Bernard Arnault who after the show said… “I didn’t want to rush. It was really a question of choosing the best person for the job, and he stood head and shoulders above the rest: the greatest talent of the moment for Dior, the greatest house in the world”. But off-course Mr. Arnault was not the only high-profile front-rower of such a massive fashion event. A-listers like Jennifer Lawrence and house ambassadors Marion Cotillard and Sharon Stone kept the paparazzi very busy while – shockingly – the supportive competition were more than thrilled to assist to such a magnificent event, people like Azzedine Alaïa, Marc Jacobs, Donatella Versace, Riccardo Tisci, Olivier Theyskens, Diane von Furstenberg, Pierre Cardin, Jean-Louis Scherrer, and even Alber Elbaz, who, at his men’s show on Sunday, mentioned that he would attend. “We designers today don’t hate each other the way they used to,” he offered in explanation. Postshow, Jacobs declared Simons’ collection “absolutely magnificent,” while Tisci called it “very Raf” and “the future of fashion”… Pure love.
And love was certainly in the air, as we all saw a very Dior collection with a magnificent re-interpretation of the new look. A new take that started with a sleek black tuxedo featuring a structured jacket with a modified cut; a black tailoring that went on with a beautifully cinched sleeveless trenchy-dress with a very interesting bust-line that was followed by a bustier-little-black-dress over cigarette pants; which later blossomed into a magical explosion of floral embroideries, that later turned into the sweetest and most romantic pale pink of the palette; and an astonishingly-regal and incredibly Dior red-lipstick coat.
Peplums, and simple and clean dresses were beautifully up-lifted with expensive little details and over-the-top embellishments that felt so modern but with hints of retro-lady-likeness with a clear Simons treatment that became more evident in his abstract graphics that the designer himself called “futurist”, in a perfect blend of the Simons-oversized-silhouette with the Dior Heritage. Unusual color-blocking and princess-like dresses invaded the runway in such a glorious way that felt so expensive, fresh and effortlessly-chic, elegant and so sensual. It was all about the shapes, the perfect sartorial, the impeccable tailoring and extraordinary cuts… Very modern-lady-like
Couture Fall 2012 for Dior would not be the first thing that would come to mind when thinking about haute-couture but it was definitely a more modern and simpler yet incredibly lavish new way of feeling the couture opulence. The big test will come on march next year after Simmons spring new line hit the shelves and the customers will decide weather it is Dior enough for them or not, but by the moment it worked perfectly. But off course, I could not help but thinking about Mr. Galliano: the fashion industry still needs a magnificent and incredibly talented Show-Man like you… We miss you and hope to hear from you very soon. Meanwhile, Bravo Simons, simply Magnificent.