Article first published as Jil Sander: FW2012 on Technorati.
Certainly, it was one of the most buzzed about shows of the season. Right after it was announced that Raf Simons was leaving the brand with the founder taking back the helm, the nostalgia was in the air with massive anticipation and expectations. And off course Raf Simon did not disappoint, delivering on of the strongest collections of the season.
A simple white, full of flowers background set a tone of joyfully-sadness, with a halo of pure delicate-romanticism, it was magical. The first look came in pastel tones with an oversize pail-pink and white coat with a fantastic sartorial that Nastya Kusakina was so gracefully holding with her hands to keep it closed, followed by a camel and pink coat and a navy ensemble that later turned into ethereal and ultra feminine with sheering little details dresses but in and incredibly minimalist and ultra avant-guard way that is very Raf Simons.
Giant skirts, bustier dresses, unusual pin-tuck details and maxi coats in pail tones welcomed stronger hues like navy and lipstick red in atypically avant-guard silhouettes and cuts that later turned into shiny lingerie-like ultra luxurious dresses to later finish in the most powerful black in such strong looks, like the hardcore bustier leather dress and the final ensemble in the most luxurious and delightfully fetish PVC we could possibly dream of. It was a magical good bay show, the perfect way to end a chapter in life with avant-guard minimalistic signature looks that are going to be remembered for decades to come as part of fashion history. Fantastic, brilliant and just perfect. Mrs. Sander herself is going to have an incredibly hard work for next season, big shoes to fill from her successor now predecessor. As funny as it sounds the real name behind the brand is going to have the most difficult job for next season. I cannot wait to see what is coming for spring/summer 2013.
Photos by Giovanni Giannoni