Article first published as Gucci: FW2012 on Technorati.
Enchanting, alluring and mysterious luxury gave a halo of decadence for Gucci’s fall collection. According to Frida Giannini, “Romanticism — literally speaking, of the 19th century” was the starting point, to create a dark yet sensual collection full of melancholic colors like black, burgundy, burnt yellow, greens and navys. It was a Victor Hugo novel full of stylishly-beautiful drama with an impressive richness of fabrics, that found deep foundations in rich brocades and jacquards, magically reinforced with velvet, fur, silk and leather.
The show opened with a long velvet skirt, leather gloves and a boxy-military jacket, a strong look with a poetic and Dandy feeling that was seen throughout the entire show. A smart, nostalgic and practical show full of opulence and magnificent pieces, in which the brocades became the strongest focus, seen in every possible way, with embroideries and velvet treatment that kept the romantic fantasy.
The Gucci-Equestrian sumptuousness was there with jodhpurlike pants and flat riding croc-boots, but floral prints gave an oriental feeling to the collection that was softened with velvet lean dresses, cinched silhouettes, delicate waistbands, sheering blouses, ruffles and a magical ignition of huge floral motives and embroideries. But it was somehow relaxed, with pajama pants giving a strong yet smooth elegance feeling to it; in a game of loose and fitted silhouette, this over the top sophistication and luxury gained an easy glamour and effortless charm.
The gowns at the end of the show were simply sublime, with transparencies and three-dimensional embellishment it was divine but out of this world divine, like the earth goddesses came to life to reclaim their powerful throne of chicness. How great would it be to see Berenice Bejo or Rooney Mara rocking one of this dresses on this Sunday’s Academy Awards? Simply magnificent.
It was a powerful collection as usual for Frida Giannini, with strong women walking down the runway full of self confidence, femininity and independence. But with a radiance of pure mysticism worthy of a decadent version of a modern gypsy or a witch of Salem in the most depraved luxury we could possibly dream of, it felt almost sinfully delicious in a enchanted-ultra-chic version of a Romantic novel. Haunted beauty.
Photos by Piero Cristaldi