Article first published as Theyskens’ Theory: FW2012 on Technorati.
Olivier Theyskens’ line for theory already has a signature look of uber-coolness with hints of chic-gothicism that was toned down this season to bring sparkly-beautifulness. According to Theyskens himself this collection was inspired by a woman coming from New York to visit her Grand-Mother in extraordinary circumstances, something like survivor meets Grand-Ma, an interesting inspiration that could not have a more brilliant result. It felt like a dark fairy tale, in which magical old couture dresses merged with hype clothes to create a terrific show full of incredibly desirable clothes.
His signature stylish-gothicism got a splash of sparkle and shimmer, a brilliant mix of cool with beautiful that got us closer to his years as creative director of Rochas and Nina Ricci. His delightful coolness took a strong dose of high-sophistication. A theme recurrent in New York Fashion week as we saw earlier with the always Cool Alexander Wang, both gave us their most sophisticated collections for their current lines to date.
It was a strong collections with ombre textured pants, sequined cropped boleros, structured jackets, hardcore leather skirts, pony jackets, romantic dresses with transparencies, concert t-shirts, luxurious beautiful dresses with exposed zippers in the back and cut out neck-lines, with such a magnificent sartorial and richness of shapes, that was somehow full of easiness, glamour and elegance. And the accessories where as desirable and luxurious as usual. What a great collection.
Photos by Thomas Iannaccone