Article first published as Jason Wu: FW2012 on Technorati.
A giant red-lighted door with a smoky atmosphere set the tone for a mystical collection that was all about Wu’s heritage: Pure Asian history with notes of the Quing Dinasty and Chinese military empire silhouettes with a Film-Noir twist. It was a bold and risky move that could have ended up as a documentary disaster, a National Geographic photo-diary full of gold-medallist gymnastics, but it was not only sophisticated and glamorous but ultra modern and so luxurious, it was pure Wu perfection.
“An Asian person doing an Asian collection. It’s a revolution” Jason Wu joked before the show, but it was certainly a smart move that became clear right after the sanctuary doors opened and the first look came out, a beautiful military dress with leather details, a visible zipper in the front, a powerful chunky belt and the most magical cape with such a delicate lace, worthy of a Chinese princess. Quilted jackets gave a sporty and relaxed vibe to the ultra luxurious fur, leather and embroideries.
It was a strong and aggressive collection for the usually feminine silhouette of the designer who was able to keep that signature delicacy aesthetic. It felt like a loaded chinese warrior took over the world in the most fashionable way to later become a powerful but ultra feminine princess. Hardcore studded leather belts, shoes and gloves were the perfect contrast for the always romantic lace, satin and golden embroideries. And those coats with the fur sleeves and the Tao dresses with geometrics patterns in shiny fabrics were such an exquisite delight, a fantastic piece for fall 2012.
Black, red and gold were the colors of the collection, a strong trend that is coming for this season, a regal luxury that is simply impossible to resist to. Those embroideries are those flowers that will bloom while the other perish, when their sky-reaching fragrance permeates the fashion world, everybody will be clothed in golden armour, that is the curse of Jason Wu’s golden flower that has witched us, and we just can not release from that magical spell, but I am sure no one will complain.
The shapes, cuts, sartorial, fittings, silhouettes and fabrics were so sensual and appealing but in an incredibly smart way, with those black tights that were so powerful and feminine. And those final gowns with those structured bodies, cinched waists, appliques, lace and drapping origami with loose skirts and open legs were magnificent. Pure luxury for Jason Wu, who decided to take a personal challenge asking to himself “What is Chinese?” and transformed legendary aesthetics into the most fantastic and divine dream that beyond the obvious, went for modern, fresh and rich clothes. Divine!!!
Photos by Giovanni Giannoni