New York Fashion Week has officially begun and one of the best early collections are always the Nicholas K shows. For Fall/Winter 2012-13 Nicholas and Christopher Kunz decided to take their brand to a whole new level with riskier and edgier looks than usual but with their signature coolness. Opening with a black leather jacket with a fur collar that was perfectly complemented with a statement hat, the Arizona desert invaded the runway with an extremely dark look that later softened with lighter shades of grays and earthy tones. The outerwear was once again the highlight of the collection, their signature jackets were as desirable as usual with such a richness of fabrics and unusual shapes and applications that felt so modern and luxurious, like that that cape-jacket with fringes in leather and fur that was simply exquisite.
Transparencies in pale tones softened the roughness of the leather and the make up for a collection that started in pure darkness that soon turned into sand, earthy and grey tones that later shined with beautiful sequined ensembles and tribal prints, with a pop of navy hues to end in pure darkness in black and navy blue. Looks that were inspired by the american western, very True Grit with a tribal hint and that Salem Witches darkness but felt stylishly-modern, very fresh and so urban New York. It was pure urban chic in de-structured and asymmetric clothes with freshly loose silhouettes that perfectly contrasted with more structured jackets with rich fabrics that included high collar treated leather and those printed shiny dresses with fringes that is simply delightful. It was as experimental, delightful and exciting as usual, but more grown up and sophisticated than the others collections and still very Nicholas K.
I loved the fact that they tried to push the envelope creating something edgier than usual, but it was a small step that still needs more. They are exploring new alternatives and it looks very promising, but it is not there yet. It was new, experimental but very shy at the same time. I look forward to see what is coming, they haver created a magnificent and extremely commercial brand that could become something more.
Photos by George Chinsee